Category Archives: Uncategorized

DIY Beach Tote – It’s “Totes” Fun!

DIY Beach Tote

 Beach Tote Bag Tutorial
 

What you’ll Need:

  • Janome Sewing Machine
  • Janome Purple Tip Needle #14
  • AcuFeed Foot or Even Feed Foot
  • 2 x Janome Plastic Bobbin
  • Dressmaking Scissors
  • Fabric Chalk / Erasable Fabric Pen
  • Quilt Ruler or Regular Ruler
  • Tape Measure
  • Pins

CUTTING INSTRUCTIONS

Blue & white stripe canvas fabric

With the strip positioned horizontally, the top cutting line should be a white stripe. Mark the cutting line 15mm (½”) into the white stripe from the blue stripe. From the cutting line measure 25½cm (10”) down the fabric and mark the second cutting line. Cut the fabric across the full width. Trim the width to 104cm (41”).
Cut 1
Measure 15mm from Blue stripe and draw your cutting line.
Cut 2
Measure down 25½cm (10”) from cutting line 1 and draw 2nd cutting line.
NOTE: Make sure you trim off the selvedge prior to cutting your fabric. Seam allowance of 15mm (½”) is included in the cutting measurements.
Cut 3
Width of fabric – trim to measure 104cm (41”)

Yellow print canvas fabric

Cut a single piece 104cm (41”) across and 76cm (30”) down. This cut will be the same width as the blue & white striped fabric but 3 times as long, as it includes the tote lining.
NOTE: Make sure you trim off the selvedge prior to cutting your fabric. Seam allowance of 15mm (½”) is included in the cutting measurements.
Cotton Strap for Handles
Yellow Strap – Cut 2 x 120cm (47”)
Blue Strap – Cut 2 x 120cm (47”)
Bag Batting
Cut a single piece – Length 49½cm (19½”) x Width 104cm (41”)
Pompom’s on a strip
Not required to be cut until being attached to the tote.
Cotton Fringing
Not required to be cut until being attached to the tote.

 

Method

Step 1 – Handles
Take one yellow strap and one blue strap. Centre the yellow strap on top of the blue strap, pin. Thread machine with yellow thread, same thread in the bobbin. Attach AcuFeed Foot / Even Feed Foot.
Select triple straight stitch Length 3.5
Stitch along the edge of each edge yellow strap.
TIP: Adjust the needle position via the stitch width adjustment, so the upper feed is on the blue strap.
Step 2
Thread the machine with blue thread top and bobbin.
Take the Blue striped fabric and the Yellow fabric, with right sides together pin the seam. Fold fabrics in half, measure and mark the strap placement positions from the left 15cm (6”) and 33cm (13”).
Position one strap within the pinned seam at your markings, the left side of the strap sits on the marking. Check that the strap is sitting the right way, when the seam is sewn the handle should be as pictured right.
Turn the fabric over and do exactly the same again with the 2nd strap.
Sew the seam using a straight stitch, length 2.8.
When complete, press if required.
Step 3
Using triple straight stitch, length 5.0, top stitch 6mm (¼”) from the seam line on the stripped fabric.
TIP: Fabric may pull while stitching, stop regularly to adjust and straighten fabric.
Step 4
Place bag batting on a flat surface and then position fabric on top. Batting sits behind the blue stripped fabric and half of the yellow fabric. The top half of the yellow fabric is the lining. If you have some quilt basting spray, it is handy to hold the fabric in place.
TIP: Also pin the fabric on the outer edges of the batting.
Step 5
Pin the handles down straight up to the top of the batting. Starting from the seam line stitch up the outer edge of the handle using a triple straight stitch, length 5.0mm. Do not stitch past the edge of the batting, recommend you finish a stitch or two before the batting finishes. Press handles when finished.
TIP: Start sewing from the bottom of the handle on each one. Sewing the handle from the tote top downwards, may cause puckering in the fabric or handle.
Step 6
Before you pin the side seam, trim away any excess batting, careful you do not cut away any fabric. Pin the side seam 1.5cm (½”) making sure you match all the stripes. Set machine to a straight stitch, length 2.8mm, now stitch the seam.
Step 7
Place the fabric on a flat surface, the opposite side to the sewn side seam is a fold in the fabric, pin a seam of 1.5cm (½”) on the fabric fold, now stitch a seam. When complete trim away excess batting.
Step 8
At the bottom of the tote (stripped fabric) pin together and stitch bottom closed. Trim excess batting.

Handy Sewing Hints

Handy Hints

 

WHAT SEWING NEEDLE DO I NEED?

Using the correct needle in your sewing machine will prevent skipped stitches and premature needle wear. Needle selection is based on two factors: the type of fabric/material that you are sewing, and the thickness that you are sewing though.

There are different types of needle for different types of fabric.

  • The universal or sharp needle is made for woven fabrics such as cottons, polyesters, damask, etc.
  • The stretch or ballpoint needle is made for knit fabrics or those with stretch in them (like a lot of modern fabrics). The ball-point needle pushes the yarns aside, instead of piercing them.
  • The denim needle has a chisel point to pierce heavy close woven fabrics.
  • The leather needle is similar to a denim needle with an additional coating in order to minimise friction when sewing through thick work.
  • A twin needle features 2 needles attached to the one shaft, so it goes into your machine as one needle. This is ideal when you require two even rows of stitching, such as the hem of a t-shirt. Twin needles come in sharp, stretch and leather.

 

The correct size of the needle is determined by the weight of the fabric. A chiffon or silk is very light and you would only use a size 9 or 11 needle. For most cottons, a size 12 or 14 is suitable.

With Janome needles, the top of the needle (known as the “shank”) is round on the front of the shaft and flat on the back, so that it cannot be inserted backwards. On the front of the needle there is a groove running down the length. Find the groove by running your fingernail down the needle. When the needle is in the machine correctly, the thread will travel down the groove and through the eye (from front to back).

 

SCISSORS

A good pair of dressmaking shears (or fabric scissors) are a sewer’s best friend. Just remember the golden rule, Fabric Scissors for fabric and general scissors for everything else. The reason that rule is so important is that prolonged use on paper or cardboard (or even metal) will cause your blades to blunt on the scissors and will make cutting fabric extremely difficult.

 

INTERFACING

Always use interfacing for collars and cuffs or when buttons or buttonholes are being used. This re-enforces the fabric and gives it strength.

 

PINNING

Pin everything! Don’t presume you can lay the two pieces of fabric together and sew them evenly. You will find that the feed dogs on the machine will feed the bottom layer of fabric faster than the top layer and you will finish with one piece too short. By pinning regularly, you lessen the chance of that happening.

 

Happy Sewing!

Janome Accessory of the Month – August

Janome Accessory of the Month

August – Janome Ruffler Foot

 

Janome Ruffler Foot

 

Ruffler Foot

 

Rufflers have been around for a very long time and have changed very little over the years; they have however remained very popular. Although at first sight a ruffler may appear bulky and complicated, its innovative design actually makes it very easy to use. This design allows fabric to be ruffled or pleated to the desired fullness quickly and easily and also has the capability to vary the sizes of ruffles.

 
ruffler foot in use
 

Click on the following links to go to the right Janome Ruffler Foot for your sewing machine:

 

Picture

Compatible Sewing Machines

Janome 7mm AcuFeed Ruffler Foot

MC6600P, MC7700P, MC7700QCP

Ruffler Foot in Use

Skyline S5, MC8200 QC, MC8900 QCP, MC9900, MC12000 and MC15000

Janome Ultimate Ruffler Foot

Other Janome Machines

 

Not sure what Ruffler foot is for you? Give us a call on 07 3355 5522 and we will be able to help you straight away!


 

Below is the official newsletter for the August Accessory of the Month

 

Janome Accessory of the Month – August 2016 – Janome Ruffler Foot

Wine Tote Bag – Fun 10 Minute Sewing Project

Wine Tote Bag – Fun 10 Minute Sewing Project

 

Gifting a bottle of wine can be a simple (and thoughtful) gift for friends and family. However if you are like me, the standard gift bag is not nearly as personalised as it could be. With that said, I have a easy project that will have your friends and family talking all day!

While Christmas is a few months away, it is never too early to get a start on the Christmas sewing, and what better way to start than the Wine Tote Bag! By itself the Wine Tote Bag Sewing Project is quick and easy for your Janome Sewing Machine; and if you are luckily enough to have a Janome embroidery machine (like the MC500e, MC12000, MC14000 or MC15000) then instead on appliqueing a design onto your Tote, you can stitch out an embroidery pattern instead.

Wine Tote Bag ()

Requirements:

  • 33 X 38cm Print Fabric (Outer bag)
  • 15 X 15cm Print Fabric (Outer Bag) for circle base
  • 13 X 38cm rectangle of contrast Fabric (Lining)
  • 10 X 15cm rectangle of pale fabric (appliqué backing)
  • Various scraps of fabric for appliqué
  • 50cm organza ribbon
  • Water erasable marking pen
  • Ruler
  • Matching sewing machine thread
  • ¼” Seam Foot
  • Button Hole Foot
  • General sewing supplies
  • Double sided fusible web (Appliqué Only)
  • Fusible interfacing (Appliqué Only)

* If you want to do an embroidered centre rather than appliqué, Please bring a suitable embroidery design and threads.

 

Method:

1. From the main Fabric, cut a rectangle 10½” wide X 12½” deep. Trace the bag base circle onto template plastic and cut out. Trace the template onto the remaining main fabric, cut out on the line. From the contrasting fabric cut a rectangle 4½” X 10½”.

2. Fold the main fabric rectangle in half and finger press a crease to mark. Measure 2” from the bottom edge of the appliqué background on this line, pin to hold, then sew around the edge with matching coloured thread.

3. Measure 2¼” and 3” down from the top edge and mark lines across. These lines will create a casing for your ribbon. Measure ½” either side of the centre crease and mark. Sew a buttonhole between the casing lines at these marks.

4. Position the contrast fabric rectangle at the top edge of the main fabric, right sides together, then sew along the top edge. Fold out and press the seam flat. On the opposite raw edge of the contrasting fabric sew zig zag stitch.

5. Fold the joined fabrics in half, right sides together and aligning the seam, and sew to form a long tube. Leave the tube inside out and sew the base circle into the bottom of the tube. With the bag still inside out. Fold the contrast fabric down to the seam and press flat.

6. With the machine foot inside the bag sew around the bag on the marked lines to create the casing.

7. Turn the bag right side out, Thread your ribbon through the casing.

Slip a bottle of wine inside your tote and tie the ribbon in a bow.

What’s New – Janome ASQ18b Acufil Quilting Kit for the Janome MC500e

WHAT’S NEW from Janome:

Janome Acufil Quilting Kit ASQ18b for the Janome MC500e

Release Date: 28/01/2016

 

Janome Acufil Quilting Kit ASQ18b for the Janome MC500e-min ()

 

This new AcuFil™ Quilting Kit has been designed for the Memory Craft 500E.

 

The Kit contains the following items:

  • AcuFil™ Square Quilting Hoop (ASQ18b) 184mm x 184mm (7.2’ x 7.2’) with template
  • Magnetic Clamps x 8
  • AcuFil™ design collection CD (inc. 97 quilting designs: stippling, feathers, free motion style motifs, stipple quilting fills, free standing and combinable designs & more)
  • Printable templates for precise positioning
  • AcuFil™ Tool Software CD – Calculator functions for easy all-over quilting design layout on any size quilt
  • AcuFil™ Tool Instructional CD (which includes Instruction book)

 

Be Quick and Order yours today!

 

The Janome AcuFil™ Tool Software is compatible with Windows Vista, Windows 7, Windows 8, & higher

Corded Braiding Project on a Janome Computerised Sewing Machine

Using the Janome Cording Foot to Produce Beautiful Braids with a Janome Sewing Machine

 

With the Janome Cording Foot “H”, there is so much that you can do and embellish. While it may look intimidating, the Janome 3-Way Cording Foot for Janome Top Loading Sewing Machines is very easy to make beautiful corded patterns at the end of garments or to create braiding you add directly onto a garment or use as a braid tape. As machines have evolved, so too has the possibilities and the creativity that can be achieved.

janome 3 way cording foot

 

In this Janome Project we will use a Janome Computerized Sewing Machine and Cording Foot “H”, along with a variety of decorative threads, to create different styles of corded braid.

 

Corded Braid Examples using the Janome Cording Foot

What you will need to complete this project:

 

On top of the cording foot “H” are three slots in which to place decorative threads. When you select one of the appropriate stitches, the threads are couched to your fabric as the decorative threads easily feed through the foot. You can match the sewing thread to the decorative thread or use a contrasting thread for a more distinct look. You may even want to consider a rainbow thread as another thread option.

 

For sewing your decorative braid in straight line, follow these steps:

  1. Place three cords (of your choosing) into the three slots on the top of the Janome Cording Foot “H” and pull them through to the back of the foot and tie a knot around all three cords, or secure them to the material with a pin.
  2. Feed the ribbon into the foot.
  3. Select the cording stitch on your machine and start sewing.

 

Your decorative braid project may require you to sew around a corner. To successfully stitch braid around a turn, follow these steps:

  1. When approaching the corner, press the Auto Lock key at the end of the stitch pattern.
  2. Press the Needle Up/Down key to lower the needle into the fabric.
  3. Remove the decorative threads from the slots on the foot.
  4. Turn the fabric 90o.
  5. Place the decorative thread that was in the right hand slot into the left hand slot.
  6. The centre thread remains in the centre slot.
  7. Place the decorative thread that was in the left hand slot into the right hand slot.
  8. Pull the decorative threads to the back of the foot with a pin, ensuring the each thread is in the relevant groove under the foot.
  9. Continue to sew to the next corner and repeat.

 

Tips and Tricks:

– Refer to the following stitch chart when selecting a braiding stitch

– While this project was designed with the Janome Computerized Sewing Machines in mind, it is still very possible to create corded braid with a Janome Mechanical Sewing Machine. Simply select the Tricot Stitch.

 

Stitch Selection Chart

Janome Sewing Machine
Decorative Stitches
DC2050 / DC2150
42
DC2101 / DC2200
24
DC4030
9 (left side)
DC6030
21
DC7060
50, 51
DC7100
71, 72
4120QDC
59, 60
MC5200
28, 29
Skyline S3
30 (Mode 2), 31 (Mode 2), 77 (Mode 2)
Skyline S5
68 (Mode 1), 69 (Mode 1)
Skyline S7
01 (Satin), 02 (Satin)
MC8200QC / MC82000QCP
51 (Mode 3), 52 (Mode 3)
MC8900QCP / MC8900QCP SE
131 (Satin), 132 (Satin)

How to Thread a Janome Overlocker

How to thread a Janome Overlocker (Serger)

 

Threading is not only the first step in using an Janome overlocker, but threading an overlocker is the most important step, as faulty threading will result in no stitches or faulty stitches forming. Threading an overlocker might look challenging but following a few simple rules, threading will become easy and take less time.

 

THREADING AN OVERLOCKER

The Right Hand Side Thread (The Green Tension Dial)

  • Following the thread guide (located behind the front flap) start with the thread on the right hand side of the thread stand first. With the telescope up at its highest position, thread this thread through the right hand side eye of the telescope.
  • Place the thread through the metal thread guide at the top of the machine and then through the guide which is above the green tension dial.
  • Place the thread around the green dial going from right to left, and give the thread a little tug (pull) to ensure that it has gone into the tension disks correctly.
  • Using the green markers on the five thread point (which are behind the front pull-down flap) pass the thread through these points, resulting in the thread being on the left hand side of the overlocker.
  • Thread the thread through the eye of lower looper and pull the thread behind the presser foot.

 

The Thread which is second to the right (The Red Tension Dial)

  • Thread this thread through the right hand side eye of the telescope.
  • Place the thread through the metal thread guide at the top of the machine and then through the guide which is above the red tension dial.
  • Place the thread around the red dial going from right to left, and give the thread a little tug (pull) to ensure that it has gone into the tension disks correctly.
  • Using the red markers on the two thread point (which are behind the front pull-down flap) pass the thread through these points, and then bring it up and behind the small metal bar which is next to the upper looper.
  • Thread the thread through the eye of upper looper and pull the thread behind the presser foot.

 

The Thread which is second to the left (The Blue Tension Dial)

  • Thread this thread through the right hand side eye of the telescope.
  • Place the thread through the metal thread guide at the top of the machine and then through the guide which is above the blue tension dial.
  • Place the thread around the blue dial going from right to left, and give the thread a little tug (pull) to ensure that it has gone into the tension disks correctly.
  • Hook the thread on the metal finger (which is below the yellow tension dial) and then place it over the take up lever (which is left of the yellow tension dial).
  • Bring the thread to the needle and place the thread through the eye of the right hand needle

 

The Thread which is second to the left (The Yellow Tension Dial)

  • Thread this thread through the right hand side eye of the telescope.
  • Place the thread through the metal thread guide at the top of the machine and then through the guide which is above the blue tension dial.
  • Place the thread around the yellow dial going from right to left, and give the thread a little tug (pull) to ensure that it has gone into the tension disks correctly.
  • Place it over the take up lever (which is left of the yellow tension dial).
  • Bring the thread to the needle and place the thread through the eye of the left hand needle.

 

SETTINGS

Setting the Janome Overlocker up to do a 3 & 4 Thread Overlocking Stitch is very easy with Janome Sergers and Overlockers. Simply follow the following settings when setting up your Janome Overlocker and you will be hemming to your heart’s content.

Tensions

o All four tension dials should be set to “3”

Stitch Length

o Set the Stitch Length dial to “3”

Differential Feed

o Set the Differential Feed Dial to “1”

Ensure that the upper knife is engaged and cutting the fabric

 

Tips and Tricks

► A threading diagram on the machine indicating the sequence and colour coding for each thread.

► Each thread’s path should be colour coded on the machine, from the thread stand to the needle or looper.

► Clip-off presser feet that enable you to reach the needles and loopers easily.

► Threading should always go from the right hand side thread to the left hand side thread

► Choose a good quality thread. (The original thread spools that came with machine are of a very high quality). To ensure that the tension is consistent on all four tensions, we recommend that you use the same type of thread for the loopers and the needles.

► Do not use woolly thread referred to as ‘flock’ or ‘floss’ in the needles, as this will keep on breaking, jamming, perhaps even breaking the needles.

► Thread one reel at a time, starting at the thread stand and following the indicated path up to the needle or looper.

► Bring all threads under the presser foot to the back and drop the presser foot.

► If you have a problem it is always better to remove the threads and start right from the beginning.

Janome DC2101 vs DC3100 – A Feature Comparison

Janome DC2101 vs DC3100

A Feature Comparison

 

Prior the release of the Janome DC3100 Computerised Sewing Machine, we here at Janome Sewing Centre would have always recommended the Janome DC2101 as a great all purpose computerised sewing machine for those who are not ready to go into the quilting and semi-industrial sewing machine ranges. When rumors came out that Janome Australia was releasing the DC3100 at the same $499.00 price point, we were left with the question, what is the difference between the Janome DC2101 and the Janome DC3100?

 

The following comparison table aims to highlight some of the similarities and differences between these two incredibly powerful machines.

 

Features
Janome DC2101
 
Janome DC2101 Sewing Machine
Janome DC3100
 
Janome DC3100 Computerised Sewing Machine - Janome Sewing Centre
 Hook Type   Top Loading Full Rotary Hook Bobbin   Top Loading Full Rotary Hook Bobbin 
 Thread Tension Control   Manual   Manual 
 Maximum Stitch Width   7mm   7mm 
 Maximum Stitch Length   5mm   5mm 
 Feed System   7 piece Super Feed system  7 piece Super Feed system
 Easy Reverse Button   Yes   Yes 
 Bobbin Winding   Auto-DeClutch   Auto DeClutch 
 Stitch Selection   Easy Navigation Buttons   Easy Navigation Buttons 
 Cover   Yes   Optional 
 Number of Stitches   30   100 
 Number of Buttonholes   3   7 
 Number of Satin Stitches   4   9 
 Needle Threader   Built in   Built in 
 Needle Up Down   Memorized   Memorized 
 Needle Positions   15   15 
 Locking Stitch Button   Yes   Yes 
Machine Size  W 37.6cm x H 28cm x D 16.8cm
(W 14.8″ x H 11″ x D 6.6″) 
 W 37.6cm x H 28cm x D 16.8cm
(W 14.8″ x H 11″ x D 6.6″) 
 Machine Weight   5.9kgs   5.7kgs 
 Work Space   W 15.8cm x H 11.9cm (W 6.2″ x H 4.7″)   W 15.8cm x H 11.9cm (W 6.2″ x H 4.7″) 
 Extra High Presser Foot Lift   Yes   Yes 
 Free Arm Length   15cm (5.9″)   19.5cm (7.7″) 
 Quick Set Bobbin System   No   Yes 
 Extension Table   Optional ($175.00)   Optional ($79.00) 

 

Do you want more information, or have you made up your mind? Click through to the machines or give us a call of 07 3355 5522 to find out more about these machines and place your order.

 

Janome DC2101
 
Janome DC2101 Sewing Machine
Janome DC3100
 
Janome DC3100 Computerised Sewing Machine - Janome Sewing Centre

Janome Skyline Series

Janome Skyline Computerised Sewing Machine Series

 

The new Janome Skyline Series is now available from Janome Sewing Centre

 

Janome have just added a brand new top of the line model in the Janome Skyline Series, the Janome Skyline S7. Since the introduction of the Janome Skyline S5, quilters and sewers have been offered a range of choice unparalleled in today’s market.

 

But several customers have asked us what is the difference between the Janome Skyline S7 and Janome Skyline S5? (And to that point what is the difference between the Janome Skyline S5 and Janome Skyline S3?)

 

Janome Skyline Series

Janome Skyline S7
Janome Skyline S7 Computerised Sewing Machine
Janome Skyline S5
Janome Skyline S5 Computerised Sewing Machine

 

Janome Skyline S3
janome s3 ()
1. Work Space (Width x Height) 210mm x 120mm 210mm x 120mm 210mm x 120mm
2. Free Arm Length 100mm 100mm 100mm
3. Maximum ZigZag Width 9mm 9mm 7mm
4. Maximum Sewing Speed 1000SPM 1000SPM 820SPM
5. Lighting 6 LEDs in 3 places 6 LEDs in 3 places 4 LEDs in 2 places
6. Auto Thread Cutter Yes Yes Yes
7. Thread Cutter Port Yes Yes No
8. Easy Set Bobbin/Winder Yes Yes Yes
9. Pop-up Needle Plate Yes Yes No
10. Alphabet 2 fonts + 9mm Capitals 1 font + 9mm Capitals 1 font + 7mm Capitals
11. Pivot Function Yes No No
12. Size of LCD Screen 62.8mm x 110.9mm 68mm x 25.5mm 68mm x 25mm
13. Type of Screen Coloured LCD Black & White LCD Black & White LCD
14. Number of Stitches 240 Stitches 170 Stitches 120 Stitches
15. Numbers of Buttonholes 11 Buttonholes 10 Buttonholes 7 Buttonholes
16. Auto Foot Lift Yes No No
17. Upper Feed System Yes (AcuFlex) No No
18. Auto Thread Tension Yes (Computerised) Yes (Roller) Yes (Roller)
19. Knee Lift Yes (Electronic) Yes (Mechanical) No
20. Variable ZigZag Yes (Electronic) No No
21. USB Port Yes (up to 3MB) No No

 

For more information or a demonstration on any of these Janome Skyline computerised sewing machine models, please contact us.

 

Janome Sewing Machines – Which Type is Best For You?

Which Type of Sewing Machine Is Right For You? Here’s the Janome Sewing Machines Guide to Help You.

If you’re planning to buy sewing machine systems any time soon, then you might be intimidated by the number of choices available today.

Need proof? Just take quick look at our Janome Sewing Machines selection, and you’ll know what we’re talking about.

Even though sewing machines aren’t as popular as they used to be, there are actually more types of it now than ever before. And that’s a good thing, because users are now able to buy sewing machine equipment that best suit their needs.

No matter what you need a sewing machine for, though, it’s always best to get acquainted with its different kinds. That way, you know what type to look for when you’re canvassing for the right sewing machine for you. The following are the main types of sewing machines for sale that you’ll normally find in stores:
 

Computerised Sewing Machines

Computerised sewing machine.
Computerised sewing machines are among the most modern sewing machines available today. These machines have a microprocessor installed for facilitating a variety of sewing tasks. This means that many of its functions are automated and, depending on the model, even programmable.

Common features include automatic needle positioning, sliding speed control, and stop/start mechanisms that make sewing activities faster and more efficient.
Many of these machines also have buttons for easy manipulation and often come with several settings for standard sewing activities. Some even come with memory banks, which allow you to customise existing pre-sets and save them for easy access in the future.

Because of their versatility, computerised sewing machines are a popular choice for general users. Thanks to its variety of settings and functions, you’ll easily be able to produce decent (if not professional-looking) work with these machines.

These are also ideal for those who want productivity above anything else, since it often saves users significant amounts of time and energy with its automated functions.
 

Specialty Sewing Machines

Janome specalty sewing machine.
There are several instances when you’ll need to do special sewing activities. For cases like these, a specialty sewing machine is the one to get. Unlike most other sewing machines, however, these machines usually only do one thing – that’s why they’re named as such. But they also do it better or more easily than any other machine.

These days, you’ll come across several models of specialty sewing machines, depending on their specific purpose and function. Janome Sewing Machines, for example, provides specialty sewing machines for felting and cover stitching – two activities that can make your work look more professional.

Because of their unique yet limited functions, specialty sewing machines are normally supplementary machines for sewers and other craftspeople. They’re used more for adding personal touches or improving the quality of work, rather than being a sewing machine for general use.

Price ranges for specialty sewing machines naturally vary, depending mostly on their special use and function.
 

Mechanical Sewing Machines

Janome mechanical sewing machine.
Mechanical sewing machines are often referred to as the most basic type of sewing machine, not so much because its name (which makes it sound old-fashioned), but because of its mechanical gears and parts. These mechanisms usually have to be adjusted manually by the user, making it a more hands-on experience than other machines.

Although this type of sewing machine does come from the old and traditional sewing machines of decades ago, today’s mechanical sewing machines are actually very modern. They now run on electricity and have knobs and dials for manually adjusting gears and settings.

Like its predecessors, however, they’re usually limited in sewing function, at least compared to today’s other sewing machines. But this is also what makes them so easy to use.

They may do only a few things compared to other machines, but they also do it well and reliably. These machines are particularly great for quick and basic sewing tasks such as alterations, repairs, or simple stitching.

Because of their simplicity, mechanical sewing machines are often the first choice for beginners and those new to sewing. They’re affordable, portable, and durable – ideal features for those who are still learning how to sew.
 

Quilting Machines

Quilting sewing machine.
As its name suggests, quilting machines are sewing machines that are used mainly for the sewing of quilts and other similar items. Although you can certainly use a regular sewing machine to make quilts, using a machine designed specifically for it will make it much easier and likely produce better results.

That’s because quilting machines are designed to handle large pieces of material for sewing, whether it be quilts, blankets, or other similar items.

To accommodate these larger-sized materials, quilting machines feature specially designed feeding systems. This not only makes stitching such materials more accurate, but also more efficient.

Because quilting machines are more specialised than other sewing machines, they’re also usually more expensive. They’re certainly not for everyone too, primarily catering only to those who frequently work with quilts and similar materials.
 

Embroidery Machines

Embroidery sewing machine.
Based on its name, it’s easy to conclude that embroidery machines are sewing machines that specialise in embroidery. When it comes creating intricate designs or adding fine details to cloth and fabric, it’s hard to beat a good embroidery machine.

What’s not so obvious, however, is the fact that these machines are also some of the most complex sewing machines available today. Most modern embroidery machines are equipped with features that make embroidery easier, quicker, and ultimately better.

Whether it’s memory banks that allow you to easily reproduce patterns, or perhaps built-in units that make embroidery attachments unnecessary, embroidery machines today are packed with several different features and accessories.

Naturally, this results in a diverse variety of embroidery machines available. The embroidery machines of Janome Sewing Machines, for instance, span from simpler models with default settings and built-in memory.
 

Children’s Sewing Machine

Children’s sewing machines are machines that are designed for use by children and young learners. As such, safety features and simple mechanics are the main priorities for these machines. They’re often small in size and limited in function so that children can learn the basics of sewing in a safe and simple manner.

Many parents use these machines to introduce their children to sewing. Not only does it teach them how to sew, but also other the lessons that go along with this valuable life skill. That’s because sewing can teach children how to be independent, self-reliant, and expressive.

To the right child, a children’s sewing machine can provide hours of inspired activity and a source of valuable life lessons.
 

See Our Range Today!

If you’d like to see different models for most of these of sewing machines, then simply browse through our Janome Sewing Machines selection.

We have a variety of sewing machines for sale, ranging from starter systems to highly specialised, professional workstations. You can also view our other pages to buy sewing machine accessories and other related products.

Tips & Tricks For Quilting Basics

Patchwork quilt made by a sewing machine.
Knowing some tips and tricks for quilting basics is great to learn to learn whether you are a seamstress, a quilter or a just an individual looking to do a couple of do-it-yourself projects. But before going into the details of quilting, it would be better of course if you would check whether you have these tools or not.

First you will need your sewing machine, a good pair of shears (and a rotary cutter, if available), a cutting mat, a ruler, a seam ripper (I also recommend Clover Seam Rippers), and thread snips (just in case you will be cutting a thread).

And always remember that in quilting, measuring is just as important (if not more so) than cutting; as not accounting for your seam allowances, you might find that at the end of your quilt, that you queen sized quilt is only fits into a baby’s bassinet.

As importantly, knowing how to use these tools correctly and the best way to cut your fabric are just the tips and tricks for quilting basics is basic sewing and cutting.

In cutting a fabric, for easy purposes, you iron your fabric but first fold it based on the way on how you want it to look like after cutting so that the lining formed will be your guide in cutting. After which, you can place it on the mat. Then place your ruler, above the fabric. Do this for the purpose of squaring up the edges of your fabric.

With a rotary cutter, cut the edge along the clear ruler and after that you already have straight edges on your fabric. Do the same process on the other sides of your fabric if you want to square it up. After squaring up, you might want to cut your textile into strips and squares.

For that, you will need the same materials. First place your textile into the mat, which is by the way self-healing, and then if you want your strip to measure 3” then position your clear ruler into the third line and again, using the rotary cutter, cut it along the edge and there you go, you already have your 3” strip. For square pieces, do the same according to your desired sizes.

With quilting, the standard allowance for the seam is ¼”. However, you have the option to increase it to ½”. The next big thing that you need to do is to join those patches or strips that you have made with of course a seam allowance of ¼ or ½.

You have the option to decide whether to make it as long or as short as you want. So much for tips and tricks for quilting basics, now that you have learned the basics and have liked it, you can now step on the advanced tutorials.

Remember that the most important part of quilting is to have fun!

Fabric Guide: Clothes Sewing

Fabric Guide: Clothes Sewing

There is a massive range of fabrics that can be used in machine sewing – something that can be a daunting prospect for beginners when deciding upon the best materials for a project.Choosing the right fabric is especially important when creating your own clothing, as different types are better for certain styles and designs.

How well do you know your sewing fabrics?

Fabric store with fabrics listed

When getting stuck into DIY clothes making using sewing machines, Brisbane-based sewing centre Janome Everton Park offers the following fabric information for your guidance.

Get A Feel For The Fabric

Weight is one of the most significant attributes of any fabric, and because fabrics can be a mixture of different fibres, (e.g. 50% Cotton, 50% wool) it’s also one that can vary the most.

Because fabric won’t always have a weight listing, it’s good practice to have a feel yourself and judge it by comparing it to other materials.

As a typical guideline, thin, lighter fabrics will be good for tops and dresses while heavier fabrics make for better jackets and pants. While there of course exceptions to these rules, you should be safe by following this standard guideline:

Very light / light: Good for shirts, shorts, dresses and skirts.

Medium: Great for light pants and jumpers.

Heavy / very heavy: Ideal for heavy pants (jeans), jackets and patches.

Outside the weight, it is also advantageous to know how your chosen fabric is constructed to ensure it will adequately meet the requirements of your sewing project/clothing piece.

There are three main varieties of fabric construction:

Knitted – This is the process where yarn (the materials interlocking fibres), are joined and interloped together in different ways. Because of this process, knitted fabrics are typically made from stretchy material.

Woven – Slightly different from the knitting procedure, this is when the yarn is woven into a pattern instead. Normally not as stretchy as knitted fabrics.

Nonwoven – When fabric has not been produced by knitting, weaving or another conventional method.

Some fabrics can also be constructed in multiple ways, such as both knit and woven, which is something to keep in mind when selecting the best one for the job.

It’s also good to know how fabric fibres are classified within the construction of the fabric itself:

Natural – Fabric and its fibres that are obtained naturally. For example, cotton that is removed from grown cotton plans and used in a large array of textile products.

Animal – A variety of natural, protein fibres obtained from animal sources.

Artificial Man-made fibres that have been created using chemicals, which have their own advantages and disadvantages from other fibre types.

Different Fabric Types

With so many fabrics on offer, we have compiled a quick overview of some of the more common types used in machine sewing.

Cotton: One of the most popular fabrics in clothes and garment creation for good reason. Very versatile, it’s used in a broad selection of clothing types including shirts, trousers, and jeans. It’s also often used in other sewing items such as bags or handkerchiefs.

Because cotton is usually light weight, strong and produces easy to wash, comfortable clothing, it’s a great fabric choice for beginners. Within the category of cotton itself there are a few variations, so make sure you double check the cotton you choose will work.

Wool: Obtained from the fur of animals, it’s also extremely popular as a fabric thanks to being strong, warm and durable. Like many fabrics, there is a host of different types that have their own weight and texture.

Linen: A medium weight fabric that like wool is used in hotter climates due to how well it conducts heat. Being a non-stretch fabric, it wrinkles heavily and can shrink in water. Still, when it comes to summer clothing, linen or a mixture of linen fabric is a good choice.

Rayon: Similar to cotton, this material, while still considered a lightweight fabric, is a little heavier than others in the same category. The fabric is cool, smooth and drapes well but is also known to wrinkle easier.

Silk: A shiny, natural fibre fabric that often signifies elegance and grace. It can be quite expensive, which is why it normally isn’t a good beginner sewing material. It’s a very soft, lightweight fabric though, that is comfortable to wear, which has justified its use in dresses, blouses and underwear.

Spandex: Known for its elastic qualities, spandex can be used in small percentages to add stretch to otherwise rigid fabrics, making it valuable in DIY clothes making for extra comfort.

Flannel: Soft and lightweight, flannel is a woven fabric used in winter clothing thanks to its heat retention.

Polyester: One of the most popular man-made fibres, polyester is great for clothes due to being cheap, strong and drying quickly. This synthetic woven fabric is also wrinkle and crease-resistant, with the advantage of not shrinking in the wash.

Denim: Known for its use in jackets and jeans, denim is a heavy fabric that takes experience to manipulate under a sewing machine. It has very little drape or stretch and often undergoes indigo dyeing that gives it the traditional blue colouring it’s known for.

Nylon: One of the strongest fibres and possesses great stretching attributes. Not the most absorbent fabric which is why it’s usual combined with other fibres to increase the comfort factor.

Leather: Tough, strong and absorbent but hard to sew. Certain leather varieties can be sewn with a regular sewing machine with preparation and patience but typically is something that requires a specific model to handle properly (e.g.  a walking foot sewing machine).

Get In Touch With The Sewing Machines Brisbane Experts Today

If you need any advice or assistance in selecting a sewing machine for your clothes making projects, get in touch with the friendly staff at Janome Everton Park.

We would be more than happy to help you with what models are best with each fabric and how you can get the most out of your sewing machine experience.

Start making your own clothes today!

7 Ways To Save Money When Sewing

7 Ways To Save Money When Sewing

Sewing is a very enjoyable activity that allows you to express your creativity, originality, and imagination. While there certainly is a practical side to sewing, especially with the ability to make your own bags, dresses, quilts and a whole range of other items, it can still be on the expensive side when your factor in fabric and accessories.

Still, it is highly satisfying creating your own items through sewing. There is a sense of pride completing a sewing project, and better yet, you have a new piece of clothing or a pillow case, or whatever you have managed to successful put together with your sewing skills.

There are ways you can sew without breaking the bank account, with a bit of savvy shopping and taking a little time to look around, sewing on a budget is feasible and still allows you to produce eye-catching designs.

Don’t let sewing cost you an arm and a leg and follow our useful tips below to save money when you have the itch to thread a needle. Sewing is a fun hobby that you can take a real passion in, so make sure you are getting the best value when deciding your next project!

1) OP Shops are a goldmine for fabric & accessories

Browsing your local OP Shop can be a really effective tactic in securing both new and old fabric for sewing projects. With heavily reduced prices, it’s a perfect place to buy cheaply and stock up, so you have a great selection of fabric choices for a whole range of different sewing activities.

Picking up cheap second-hand clothing and then making alterations and changes to them, so they stand out with your own signature, can also be a fun sewing project. With many OP Shops selling clothing from as little as $1, buying a bunch is cost-effective and provides many choices and opportunities to let your creative streak go wild.

Be sure also to use OP Shops for picking up sewing accessories on the cheap. This includes buttons that can be cut off old, worn clothing, or other interesting sewing decorations such as lace and ribbons. So the next time you are passing by your OP Shop, go inside and have a look for some savings.

fabric bolts together

2) Search for free patterns

There is a wealth of sewing patterns available as free resources that can save you big when compared to spending money on acquiring expensive designs. Looking online offers a wide range of websites offering free patterns, and it’s as easy as going to Google and searching for whatever item you’re looking to sew and the phrase ‘free patterns’.

Many sewing books will include patterns or tutorials that may be of interest to you. Don’t purchase these books. Rather, have a search at your local library to see what sewing books they have available. Most libraries also have a photocopy machine, allowing you to make copies of pattern prints cheaply and take them with you for a new project.

Another way to obtain an interesting pattern for free is to have a look at your current collection and see if you can mix and match them to create a new unique look. You would be surprised at what you can make by combining older patterns in interesting ways.

You can also check out the current free patterns we have listed on our website: tote bags, dresses, and quilts.

3) Check remnant bins in fabric stores

For specific smaller projects or practice materials, remnant bins in fabric stores should regularly be checked to score a bargain. Remnants are cut of fabric that are too small to be left on the bolt by themselves. So if you require less than a yard of fabric for your sewing task, ensure you have browsed through these bins for great savings.

4) Shop for fabric during sales & end of season

It may seem obvious, but buying fabric during sales can lead to a huge saving of money, particularly if you also buy in bulk, which can save you even further. You can sign up for mailing and emailing lists with fabric stores such as Spotlight, who will notify you of sales periods or special discounts. This way you can stay prepared and be ready to make fabric purchases at the times when it’s most cost-effective.

Just like any other retailer, many fabric stores will have end of season sales where clearance racks can be a treasure trove of cheap, quality fabric. Take advantage of these stores offloading seasonal fabric as the prices should be reduced to make way for new stock.

5) Check out community sewing options

Expensive sewing classes can sometimes stand in your way of learning new skills and increasing your experience. One good way to get around this is checking if your nearest community house run sewing classes at a more affordable price.

fabric colours together in a bunch

6) Always compare pricing – online & brick and mortar stores

Fabric just like any other commodity will vary in price from one location to another. Use the internet to do a quick price check between stores to make certain you aren’t vastly overpaying for the same or similar type of fabric. It also never hurts to ask if a shop will match a price if you have seen the fabric cheaper somewhere else.

Depending on what fabric and how much you require for the job, it may be worth checking out the range of online fabric stores. With fewer overheads than traditional brick and mortar stores, large savings could be had with minimal delivery costs.

7) Combine your small pieces of fabric into something new

A fashionable trend today is making clothes with different patterns sewn together. Make use of you left over scraps of fabric to create something truly unique and original! You can also consider making new garments from stitching together pieces of fabric from old clothing you don’t wear anymore. It’s a fun way to recycle your old stuff while also saving some dollars.