How to Sew with Elastic

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When just starting, one of the most challenging techniques for new sewists is sewing elastic into their craft projects and garments.  While elastic sewing is not inherently difficult, when done properly, elastic can reduce the slack on a hem or dress, and can add value to the finished project, however, elastic, when incorrectly sewn into a project, can bunch up and draw the eye for all of the wrong reasons. There is nothing worse than sewing a magnificent item and having your elastic turn into a “lettuce edge”.  Before we get into the sewing tips for elastic, we first should discuss the different types and their applications.

 

Types of Elastics:

Much like fabric, elastic comes in many shapes, sizes and thicknesses. By learning about the different types of elastics before we start using them in our projects, we can ensure that we are using the correct elastic for projects, ensuring the best results.

Braided elastic features parallel ridges along its length. These allow the braided elastic to grip onto its surrounding. However, they also allow the elastic to narrow as it is stretched allowing it to roll more easily than its woven or knitted counterparts. For this reason, it is recommended that this type of elastic is used in casings instead of directly sewing it into the fabric, and is often seen in sleeves, necklines, or other areas where rolling is not typically an issue.

Similar to Braided Elastic, Ribbed Elastic features ridges only this time they run across the width of the elastic. When stretched, this elastic maintains its width, making it roll resistant and perfect for casings.

This thin elastic thread is used in the bobbin of a sewing machine to create pulled in and ruffled look.

Designed to be used with hats and headwear, this style of elastic is shrink resistant. Generally less than 3mm in width, this elastic can be used in a casing or stitched directly onto a project.

Composed of elastic fibres knitted together, this style of elastic is amongst the softer elastics. Perfect for sewing into the project, this elastic retains its width and is. This elastic is roll resistant however not as resistant as woven elastic. Typically this elastic is seen in waistbands, and bra backs.

Often referred to as ‘non-roll elastic’, woven elastic is usually the firmest type of elastic. Retaining its width when stretched, this elastic is suitable to be stitched in or used in a casing and is typically used with height weight fabrics.

This soft elastic features a finished edge on one side of the elastic. As the name implies, this style of elastic is seen in underwear and lingerie.

Designed to be folded over the raw edge, this style of elastic is used in underwear, hems, and hair accessories.

Used in waistbands, this style of elastic features buttonholes throughout it. This allows it to be used to tighten a waistband by adjusting the button to a different hole.

Used in swimwear and lingerie, this clear elastic provides more resistance against the skin than fabric-based elastics and can hold sections of a garment in place.

Stitch In Method for Adding Elastic to a Project

What you will need:

  • Elastic
  • Pins
  • Sewing Machine and Thread
  • Fabric

Start by cutting a strip of elastic so that the ends will meet up with each other and not overlap. Depending on the style of elastic, this strip will be between three to five inches shorter than the fabric opening. To reduce bulk, try cutting the ends triangularly and having them meet up on the diagonal.

If this elastic is being used on a circular hem, stitch the two ends of the elastic together with a wide triple zig-zag (tricot) stitch. This will ensure that the elastic will not shift or come apart in the future. If the elastic is going into pants or trousers with a front opening, this step is skipped.

When applying the elastic to the fabric, divide (and mark with a non-staining temporary chalk/marker) the fabric and elastic into quarters and then pin it together. This will allow you to evenly apply the elastic to the fabric ensuring a great result.

At each quarter marking, run a stitch across the elastic. By doing this before you start sewing, should a pin (or two) pop out of position, you will only have to repin one quarter.

Using a wide Zig Zag or Triple Zig Zag stitch, sew around the top and bottom of the elastic.

Then close your hem (if necessary) and you will have a perfectly elasticised project.

Casing Method for Adding Elastic to a Project

What you will need:

  • Elastic
  • Pins
  • Safety Pins
  • Sewing Machine and Thread
  • Fabric
  • Bodkin (Optional)

Measure the elastic length and allow for a 1cm overlap.

When it comes time to create the casing, fold and iron an edge less than 6mm wide. This will become the bottom of the casing. Then measuring a distance just a fraction larger than the width of the elastic, fold the fabric again and press flat. Ensure that this distance is as close as possible to the width of the elastic to prevent twisting and rolling.

Pin the folds to the hem and edge stitch around the top of the casing.

Stitch the bottom of the casing and leave a gap of about 5cm so that you can insert your elastic. (We will close this gap later).

Depending on the thickness of the elastic, use a safety pin of elastic bodkin to thread the elastic through the casing. When both sides of the elastic are through the gap, use safety pins and pin the elastic through the casing on both sides of the gap (holding it in place).

Run your hand over the casing to confirm that the elastic has not twisted.

Overlap the ends of the elastic and machine sew them together.

Tuck the sewn ends into the casing and sew the gap closed.